A TALE AS OLD AS TIME, IN MARBLE

The Majestic Taj Mahal mausoleum sits at the end of a Mughal garden

Possibly the most extravagant memorial gift from a husband to his beloved departed wife, built to honor their emotional bond for all eternity, the Taj Mahal symbolizes that rare encounter, a gift everyone is yearning for and hopes to find at least once in a lifetime called Love. Only the few lucky of us who have experienced that feeling of bliss can appreciate the true meaning of the Taj Mahal, as it was intended.  After all, Love is universal and knows no time. What was true for a Mughal royal in XVIII century India is still true today. 

I invite you on a visit to the fabulous Taj Mahal and reveal, its concept, why and how it was built, the craftsmanship used to make a king's dream a reality and finally who is resting within its sparkling white walls. Many of you may already know the story, or at least have some knowledge behind one of the iconic monuments recognized the World over. It is a tale for all times and all cultures. 

SHAH JAHAN, KING OF THE WORLD

As the fifth ruler of the Mughal Dynasty which ruled India between 1526 and the beginning of the XIX century, Shah Jahan was born as Prince Shihab-ud-din Muhammad Khurram, in 1592 in Lahore, India (modern day Pakistan) as the third and favorite son of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, a muslim, from his favorite wife Manmati, a hindu queen.  Khurram which translates "joyful" in Persian was given by his grandfather, Akbar the great, one of the most successful rulers of all times. Descending from Timurid lineage (Tamerlane) which ruled Central Asia, Iran into Anatolia region of Turkey, Prince Khurram received a cultured, broad education and he distinguished himself in the martial arts and as a military commander while leading his father's armies in numerous campaigns. Early on he demonstrated a talent for building, impressing his father at the age of 16 when he built his quarters within his great grandfather Emperor Babur's Kabul fort and redesigned buildings within Agra fort. 

Arjumand Bano Begum

Shah Jehan

THE LOVE STORY

In 1607, at the age of fifteen, Khurram was promised to Arjumand Banu Begum, the daughter of a Persian noble, Abdul Hasan Asaf Khan, the brother of Queen Nur Jehan (her mother in law). A shia muslim , she was 14 years old at the time. They would, however, have to wait five years before they were married in 1612, on a date selected by the court astrologers as most conducive to ensuring a happy marriage. After their wedding celebrations, Khurram "finding her in appearance (she was to be of great beauty) and character elect among all the women of the time", gave her the title 'Mumtaz Mahal' Begum (Chosen One of the Palace). During that time period, Khurram took two other wives. By all accounts however, Khurram was so taken with Mumtaz, that he showed little interest in exercising his polygamous rights with the two earlier wives, other than dutifully siring a child with each.

Mumtaz Mahal had a very deep and loving marriage with Shah Jahan. Even during her lifetime, poets would extol her beauty, grace and compassion. Mumtaz Mahal was Shah Jahan's trusted companion, travelling with him all over the Mughal Empire. His trust in her was so great that he even gave her his imperial seal, the Muhr Uzah who had wielded considerable influence in the previous reign. She was a great influence on him, apparently often intervening on behalf of the poor and destitute. But she also enjoyed watching elephant and combat fights performed for the court. It was quite common for women of noble birth to commission architecture in the Mughal Empire. Mumtaz devoted some time to a riverside garden in Agra.Despite her frequent pregnancies, Mumtaz travelled with Shah Jahan's entourage throughout his earlier military campaigns and the subsequent rebellion against his father. She was his constant companion and trusted confidante, and their relationship was intense. Indeed, the court historians go to unheard lengths to document the intimate and erotic relationship the couple enjoyed. In their nineteen years of marriage, they had fourteen children together, seven of whom died at birth or at a very young age. Mumtaz died in Burhanpur in 1631, while giving birth to their fourteenth child. 

The contemporary court chroniclers paid an unusual amount of attention to Mumtaz Mahal's death and Shah Jahan's grief at her demise. In the immediate aftermath of his bereavement, the emperor was reportedly inconsolable. Apparently after her death, Shah Jahan went into secluded mourning for a year. When he appeared again, his hair had turned white, his back was bent, and his face worn. Jahan's eldest daughter, the devoted Jahanara Begum, gradually brought him out of grief and took the place of Mumtaz at court.

THE MAUSOLEUM

The monumental tomb rests atop a plinth made of white marble. An elaborate system of pulley was used to carry the marble blocks into place with the help of hundreds of donkeys and bullocks. The construction of the plinth and mausoleum took a work force of 20,000 a total of 12 years, toiling on a daily basis who were housed outside the garden perimeter in a settlement known as Mumtazabad, in honor of the departed queen (now renamed Taj Ganj). The workers housing complex is still visible and in use to this day. Followed were the four minarets, the mosque and adjacent buildings and finally the gateway which were all completed within the next 8 years.

Walking towards the mausoleum 

A substantial number of international artists and craftsmen participated in its decoration. The best and the brightest of the time were commissioned to realize something out of a King's dream. Some as far as Florence, Italy and the Middle East. Turks and Persians were the main conceptual artists.

The material used in the construction came from far and wide. With the help of one thousand elephants, red sandstone was brought in from Fatehpur Sikri, jasper from Punjab, jade and crystal from China, turquoise from Tibet, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, sapphire from Sri Lanka, coal and cornelian from the Arabian peninsula and diamonds from Panna in the indian state of Madhya Pradesh. In all, twenty eight kind of rare semi precious and precious stones were used to transform the mausoleum into a jewelry box. The main building material, white marble, was carried from the quarries at Makrana in neighborhing Rajasthan.  

Pachikari work on marble near the mausoleum main door

Outdoor detail

It is widely believed that the Taj Mahal was designed to represent an earthly replica of one of the houses of paradise. Its impeccable marble facing, embellished by a remarkable use of exquisite surface design, is a showcase for the refined aesthetic that reached its height during Shah Jahan's reign. Described as one of the "most elegant and harmonious buildings in the world," the Taj is the iconic structure demonstrating the wealth and luxury of Mughal art at its peak. The Mughals were great naturalists and believed that flowers were the symbols of "the divine realm." In the Taj, pietra dura (inlaid marble design known as pachikari) has been extensively used to translate naturalistic forms into decorative patterns that complement the majesty of its architecture. The Florentine technique of Pietra Dura is said to have been imported by Emperor Jahangir (Shah Jehan's father) and developed in Agra. Tiny slivers of precious and semi precious stones were arranged in complex stylized floral designs set into a marble base. Flowers, such as the tulip, lily, and narcissus were depicted as sprays or in arabesque patterns. Stones of varying degrees of color were used to create the shaded effects.

The top of a minaret reveals the intricacy of details bestowed upon the entire complex

OTHER STRUCTURES

The four detached minarets springing from the plinth of the Taj Mahal measure 138 feet high and stand like sentries nobly keeping guard. They were built out of plumb, slanting so that if they were to topple, they would fall outwards of the Taj, protecting the tomb from harm. They were an afterthought and leftover marble of various sizes and shapes was used for their construction. In order to harmonize them all, black marble was inlaid on each which gives an illusion of uniformity to each. They form a visual framework to the Taj proper and enhance the symmetry of the building.

A red sandstone mosque lays on the Western part of the Taj Mahal where Muslims collect every Friday to offer their prayers to Allah. According to Islamic rule, the mosque faces Mecca and is complimented by another red sandstone building on the East side of the Taj which is believed to have been built to mirror the mosque in color and design, probably as a symmetrical feature to the ensemble. There is a small stone enclosed space, a greenery shaded structure marking the temporary burial where Mumtaz Mahal's remains were kept until the completion of the mausoleum. This enclosure is located along the western boundary wall, which houses the well of the Mosque.

The mosque on the western side of the Taj Mahal

The Taj gateway is a tall niche doorway in the shape of an ogival arch that rises to the mid-height of the structure. With a vertical symmetry, the main gateway of Taj Mahal stands bordered with Arabic calligraphy of verses from the Quran made of black stone. The calligraphy size cleverly increases from top to bottom to give the illusion of uniformity to the script from any distance. Entwined flowers, mainly red lotus leaves and vines, ornament the sloping sides of the niche. These motifs are made of semi-precious stones inlaid in marble.

Taj Gateway

Architectural Detail of the Gate

Design on dome of Gateway

Gateway detail

The impressive gateway and its caligraphy

Further beautifying the gateway to the Taj is an image of a white teardrop with a red trident, located above the pointed tip of the niche. When the gateway was under construction, this frontal gateway served as the main entrance. All these motifs reflect an Hindu touch to this otherwise Muslim monument. The flowers, vines, and leaves that are sinuous and idealized rather than geometric, the red lotus flowers that represent Lord Brahma are some of the Hindu influence in the construction of Taj Mahal.

As always seeing is believing ... come see for yourself and be amazed at the grandeur and inspiration of love's achievement.

MONUMENTAL PARIS: a gem of architecture and culture

I wouldn't say that it is without a sense of pride that I started to think writing about possibly the most esthetically pleasing city in the World. Paris, the city of lights, city of love. Many an artist has written about your gracefulness and enchanting tales of grandeur. Rio has natural beauty but Paris gets the first price for monumental appeal. Along with other European cities such as Rome, Madrid or London, Paris is one of those must visit cities of the World. Not only does it have amazingly beautiful architecture but it also harbors equally amazing refined shopping, winning and dinning unequaled the World over. Along with art, fashion and a unique sense of joie de vivre, Paris delivers a stunning performance for the ones who are lucky enough to come within its inner realms. Voted one of the three most influential cities in Europe in 2010, Paris has had a long history of invasions, chaos and spectacular flourishes.

Historical building in the Marais District

With beginnings around 4200BC, the Paris metro area known as the "Ile de France" (The Isle of France) has grown, over the centuries, into the modern city we know today. The first permanent settlement, Lutecia, located on today's Île de la Cité, was born under the Romans in 52BC and prospered over a vast period of time. The architecture of Paris is closely linked to its history. Blessed with both domestic and foreign influences in its styling, grandiose Paris is an osmosis of various styles coming together to form what is today a treasure of art in building making. Most of what can be seen nowadays dates back to the XIX century and is the result of vast urban remodelling begun by Hausmann. For centuries, the city had been a labyrinth of narrow streets and half-timber houses but with Haussman's plans, entire quarters were leveled to make way for wide avenues lined with neo-classical stone buildings of bourgeoisie standing.

Avenue de la Grande Armee and the modern La Defense area in the background

Haussman's era buildings near the Place de L etoile

Les Champs Elysees, Paris famous avenue

MY TOUR OF PARIS

Here is a simple way to get a feel of what Paris is like when you only have 3 days to spare. Again this is what I did and I am sure there are many more options out there. First of all walking is the best way to see this city. The driving conditions are not best and the traffic is horrible. Let alone finding a parking space. Therefore Metro is king. It virtually takes you, within minutes, wherever your mood may lead you. It is affordable and fast. There is a system of multi-day pass which allows you to take unlimited trips on the rail system. I think some passes include the RER, Paris Metro Transit system which reaches CDG International Airport from where you might land and leave from. That is when there are no strikes of the transportation system ! 

The best plan is to map out your route for the day, thinking about the sunlight to get those National Geographic looking shots. Start early since you will be easily walking a good 10 miles total in one day. Wear comfy shoes and go off on your Paris adventure.

Metro Station entrance design typical of its 1900 beginnings

Tourists flock to the Louvre Museum where Mona Lisa is exposed. By the way I hate that pyramid ! 

A Paris must do, if you have time, is to visit the Louvre Museum. One of the world's largest museums, the most visited art museum in the world it is housed inside the Louvre Palace, which began as a fortress built in the late 12th century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress are still visible. The building was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles for his household, leaving the Louvre primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of antique sculpture. Across from the Palace is the Jardin des Tuleries, covering about 63 acres (25 hectares) and still closely follows a design laid out by the royal landscape architect André Le Nôtre in 1664. His spacious formal garden plan drew out the perspective from the reflecting pools one to the other in an unbroken vista along a central axis from the west façade, which has been extended as the Axe historique.

Garden of the Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries in the heart of Paris. Place de la Concorde is in the background

Sit and enjoy the sun rays while at the Jardin des Tuileries

The Place de la Concorde is located at the west end of the Jardin des Tuileries. Filled with statues and fountains, the area was named Place Louis XV to honor the king at that time. The square showcased an equestrian statue of the king, which had been commissioned in 1748 by the city of Paris, sculpted mostly by Edmé Bouchardon, and completed by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle after the death of Bouchardon. During the French Revolution the statue of Louis XV of France was torn down and the area renamed "Place de la Révolution". The new revolutionary government erected the guillotine in the square, and it was here that King Louis XVI was executed on January 21, 1793. The square was then renamed Place dede la Concorde. The center of the Place is occupied by a giant Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramses II. The two fountains in the Place de la Concorde have been the most famous of the fountains built during the time of Louis-Philippe, and came to symbolize the fountains in Paris. In film The Devil Wears Prada, Andrea Sachs throws her phone into one of the fontaines de la Concorde.

The Southern Fountain and the Obelisk at Place de la Concorde

The Champs Elysees Avenue from Arc de Triomphe (Etoile Circle)

Crossing the Place de la Concorde to the West leads the visitor to the Champs Elysees. Named in French for Elysian Fields, the place of the blessed dead in Greek mythology, this prestigious avenue is home to cinemas, cafés, luxury specialty shops and clipped horse-chestnut trees, the Avenue des Champs-Élysées is one of the most famous streets in the world, and with rents as high as USD1.5 million annually per 1,100 square feet (92.9 square metres) of space, it remains the second most expensive strip of real estate in Europe after London's Bond street. When on the Champs Elysees make sure to stop at Ladurée, a luxury cakes and pastries brand based here. It is known as the inventor of the double-decker macaron, fifteen thousand of which are sold every day. They are considered the best macaron shop in the world. Once you have strolled the 2 kilometers (1.25miles) you will find yourself at the Arc de Triomphe ("Triumphal Arch") which honours those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and the Napoleonic Wars, with the names of all French victories and generals inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces. Beneath its vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I. I used to work down the street from the Arc at Avenue Marceau back in 1986 and passed by it everyday ! 

Arc de Triomphe

A handsome walk from the Arc down the Avenue Kleber leads to the Trocadero, a square housing the Palais de Chaillot, a monumental museum complex built in 1937. It is in the Palais de Chaillot that the United Nations General Assembly adopted the Universal Declaration of Human Rights on December 10, 1948. It was also the initial headquarters of NATO. From this point, one can admire the grand view of the Gardens of the Trocadero, the Jena bridge (Pont d' Iena) and the Eiffel Tower accross the river. Built in 1889, it has become both a global icon of France and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. The tower is the tallest building in Paris and the most-visited paid monument in the world as millions of people ascend it every year. Named for its designer, engineer Gustave Eiffel, the tower was built as the entrance arch to the 1889 World's Fair.

Trocadero Gardens and Eiffel Tower

Iena bridge and Champ de Mars under the Eiffel Tower

The tower stands 324 metres (1,063 ft) tall, about the same height as an 81-story building. Upon its completion, it surpassed the Washington Monument to assume the title of tallest man-made structure in the world, a title it held for 41 years, until the Chrysler Building in New York City was built in 1930.  

Close to the Trocadero is the famous Passy Cemetery, opened in 1820 in the expensive residential and commercial districts of the Right Bank near the Champs-Élysées. By 1874 the small Passy Cemetery had become the aristocratic necropolis of Paris. It is the only cemetery in Paris to have a heated waiting-room.

A long list of authors, celebrities, royalties and aristocrats are buried here. 

Grand mother and grand daughter lay side by side in this grave sheltering the remains of Iranian Royalty

Trocadero Metro Station

After all this walking around you will need a definite break by taking a ride on the Paris Metro. Maps of the network are everywhere and you just need to find out the line number and its final destination to hop on the correct train to your desired destination. 

We continue on to Montmartre, a hilly neighborhood in the northern part of the city recognisable by the white-domed Basilica of the Sacré Cœur on its summit. Montmartre is also famous for its nightlife. Pigalle Square is famous for being a tourist district, with many sex shops on Place Pigalle and the main boulevards and prostitutes operating in the side streets. The neighborhood's raunchy reputation led to its World War II nickname of "Pig Alley" by Allied soldiers. The Divan du Monde and the Moulin Rouge, a world-famous cabaret, are both located in Pigalle.  

Sacre Coeur on Montmartre Hill

The view from the Sacre Coeur Basilica on top Montmartre Hill

The view from the Basilica atop the hill is beautiful. One can admire most of Paris from this point. The tall building on the right is the Tour Montparnasse. When you do so make sure you keep an eye on the gypsy kids running around. They might just ruin your day if you are not careful. From the basilica, one can explore a maze of small streets filled with bars and cafes, restaurants and small shops, bakeries and clothes stores. One of them located at the junction of Rue Lepic and Rue Cauchois, the Cafe des deux moulins takes its name from the two nearby historical "windmills", Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette. The interior consists of a bar area and multiple small tables at which one might sit and enjoy a piping hot espresso. The café has gained considerable fame since its appearance in the 2001 film, Amélie, in which it is the workplace of the title character. 

The portrait of Amelie hangs on the back of the Cafe des Deux Moulins

A short subway ride East of Montmartre is the Père Lachaise Cemetery, officially called the Cemetery of the East. The largest cemetery in Paris, it is reputed to be the world's most-visited cemetery, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors annually to the graves of those who have enhanced French life over the past 200 years. It is also the site of three World War I memorials. At the time of its opening, the cemetery was considered to be situated too far from the city and attracted few funerals. Consequently, the administrators devised a marketing strategy and in 1804 with great fanfare organised the transfer of the remains of La Fontaine and Molière. The strategy worked so well it now holds 300,000 bodies buried there (the population size of Venice, Italy !), and many more in the columbarium, which holds the remains of those who had requested cremation.

Two of the World most famous artists are buried there close one to another. Edith Piaf, born Édith Giovanna Gassion, was a French singer and cultural icon who became universally regarded as France's greatest popular singer. Oscar Fingal O'Flahertie Wills Wilde was an Irish writer and poet. After writing in different forms throughout the 1880s, he became one of London's most popular playwrights in the early 1890s. Today he is remembered for his epigrams, plays and the tragedy of his imprisonment, followed by his early death.

Like a city, the Pere Lachaise Cemetery has main streets, lanes and a numbering system to locate graves.

Edith Piaf

A sentimental note left by an admirer says: "Edith I love you, because of you I have no regrets"

Oscar Wilde's grave is covered with loving grafittis

L' Ile de la Cite is Paris historical heart and soul. Most scholars believe that in 52 BC, at the time of Vercingetorix's struggle with Julius Caesar, a small Gallic tribe, the Parisii, lived on the island. At that time, the island was a low-lying area subject to flooding that offered a convenient place to cross the Seine and a refuge in times of invasion. After the conquest of the Celts, the Roman Labienus created a temporary camp on the island, but further Roman settlement developed in the healthier air on the slopes above the Left Bank, at the Roman Lutetia. The island houses Notre Dame de Paris, a Gothic cathedral of the Catholic Archdiocese of Paris: that is, it is the church that contains the cathedra (official chair), of the Archbishop of Paris. Notre Dame de Paris is widely considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture in France and in Europe, and the naturalism of its sculptures and stained glass are in contrast with earlier Romanesque architecture. The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, a novel by Victor Hugo published in 1831, centers its story around the Notre Dame Cathedral.

Ile de la Cite and the Seine River

Exquisite sculptures adorn the front of the Cathedral

Notre Dame de Paris

Steps leading to the Seine at Ile de la Cite are a favorite hangout for Parisians

The river Seine, the life line of Paris, like an artery in its heart pumping commerce and life into the city for centuries, flows down to the Atlantic ocean which it reaches at Le Havre. Along its celebrated banks lay countless buildings which have shaped its character and history. Thirty seven bridges span its course in Paris alone. Some of those bridges became landmarks of their own. The Pont the la Concorde links the square by the same name and National Assembly of France on the rive gauche, the southern bank. 

Pont de la Concorde (Concorde Bridge)

Bateaux mouches on the Seine river from Pont du Carousel

Since the Seine is centrally situated in Paris, a boat tour covers a great deal of the city. Both the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and the Right Bank (Rive Droite) are visible from the boat. Passengers can see, among other sites, the Eiffel Tower; Notre-Dame Cathedral; the Alexander III Bridge, the Pont Neuf; the Orsay Museum, and the Louvre Museum. Passengers can also see Les Invalides, Napoleon's burial site. The term Bateaux Mouches is a registered trademark of the Compagnie des Bateaux Mouches, the most widely known operator of the boats in Paris. Because of the success of the company, it is wrongly used colloquially to refer to all boats operating on the river. Bateaux Mouches translates  to "fly boats" which comes from the name of the boatyard they were originally manufactured in Lyon called Mouche. More than a way for tourists to experience Paris, the Seine is also a commercial waterway widely used as shown in the picture below. 

Commercial barge traffic on the Seine 

One of Paris oldest shop started in 1638 still open in 2010. 

The Rue des Rosiers lays at the center of the Jewish quarter unofficially called "the Pletzl" (Yiddish for "little place"). During the last ten years, the Rue des Rosiers has become notable for fashion. The quaint boutiques of days-gone-by have given way to gleaming minimalist showrooms for some of Europe’s trendiest labels. Not following the Western holiday schedules, Rue de Rosier shops have become the meeting point for Parisians who want to eat out and shop on Sunday, Christmas or during any of the off days. Well worth the visit !

The Ace of the Fallafel is a re known snack on Rue des Rosiers

The Place des Vosges, in the same area of Le Marais, is the oldest planned square in Paris. Originally known as the Place Royale, the Place des Vosges was built by Henri IV from 1605 to 1612. A true square, it embodied the first European program of royal city planning. Inaugurated in 1612 with a grand carrousel to celebrate the wedding of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, is the prototype of all the residential squares of European cities that were to come. What was new about the Place Royale in 1612 was that the housefronts were all built to the same design of red brick with strips of stone quoins over vaulted arcades that stand on square pillars.

Place des Vosges

Place des Vosges

No tour of Paris would be complete without a visit to the Opera house a few Metro Stations away from Place des Vosges. Founded in 1669 by Louis XIV as the Académie d'Opéra it shortly became the Académie royale de Musique. The company primarily produces operas at its modern theatre Opéra Bastille which opened in 1989, and ballets at the older Palais Garnier which opened in 1875.

The Garnier Palace, Opera house of Paris

As always the best way to experience a place is to be there, get up close and personal with its smells, tastes, atmosphere and vibe. So what are you waiting for ? 

LEBANON, Land of the Phoenicians

The shouf

A BRIEF INTRODUCTION

Lebanon's location at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Basin and the Arabian hinterland has dictated its rich history, and shaped a cultural identity of religious and ethnic diversity. A small country with a large diversity of terrain and population, Lebanon is geographically gifted. Mountains to the East and the Mediterranean to the West, Syria on its Eastern border and Israel to the South. With a population of just 4 million and a diaspora of nearly 4 times that amount across the planet, Lebanese people have conquered the World for centuries and left their spirited imprints in many lands. 

The earliest evidence of civilization in Lebanon dates back more than 7,000 years—predating recorded history. Lebanon was the home of the Phoenicians, a maritime culture that flourished for nearly 2,500 years (3000–539 BC). Following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire after World War I, the five provinces that comprise modern Lebanon were mandated to France. The French expanded the borders of Mount Lebanon, which was mostly populated by Maronite Catholics and Druze, to include more Muslims. Lebanon gained independence in 1943, and established a unique political system, known as confessionalism, a power-sharing mechanism based on religious communities. Riad El-Solh, who became Lebanon's first prime minister, is considered the founder of the modern Republic of Lebanon and a national hero for having led (and died for) the country's independence. French troops withdrew in 1946.

The Ancient port of Byblos is still in use today

MY VISIT OUTSIDE BEIRUT

I start my driving tour on a bright sunny day of October 2010 by hiring a car with a driver since I am not familiar with the roads in Lebanon. Not that I wouldn't want to learn (I think I could drive anywhere in the World after living in India and driving there without dying) but I had limited time and thought it would be best. 

The road from downtown Beirut snakes around the city towards the South, passing the "unsafe" area of Borj Al Brajne, a sort of favela where Palestinian refugees live. The area is unattractive and reflects the bleak conditions these people live under. A huge contrast to the Beirut I just left of elegant avenues, modern conveniences and Starbucks coffee bars. I am suddenly plunged into a neighborhood planted with large street side billboards portraying Hezbollah commander in chief Hassan Nasrallah and Iranian president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. This is the area which was heavily bombarded by Israel in 2006. I pass the airport, entering the highway going South, towards Israel which is a close 50 miles away. The seaside scenery alternates with beaches, modern towns with shopping plazas and rock formations. To the East, extend a mountainous terrain making it look like a sort of forgotten Riviera. 

Looking down towards the Meditarranean

I reach Damour and exit the highway to take the scenic road which will take me to some sites I am excited to visit today. The 2 lanes road climbs the seaside hills through a green narrow valley ascending sharply towards the town of Deir El Qamar (meaning Monastery of the Moon). The freshness of the air fills the car as I open my window and I close my eyes an instant to feel it run on my face. As the climb progressed the temperature drops to a comfortable 70F.

 I reach Deir El Qamar around 9am. During the 16th to 18th centuries, Deir el Qamar was the residence of the governors of Lebanon. It is also notable for its 15th century  historical palaces and administrative buildings. The 17th century Synagogue is also in the village, although closed to the public. During its peak, the city was the centre of Lebanese literary tradition. It was the first village in Lebanon to have a municipality in 1864, and it is the birthplace of many well known personalities, such as artists, writers, and politicians. It was the capital of the Druze Cancimat of Lebanon (1840-1860). One of his sons, Camille Shamoun was President of Lebanon from 1952 to 1958, and one of the country's main Christian leaders during most of the Lebanese Civil War (1975–1990).

The Fakhredinne Mosque in Deir El Qamar

In front of Fakhredinne II Palace in Deir El Qamar

Village of Deir El Qamar

My visit continues towards the famed castle of Beit ed Dine meaning "house of religion".  Local emir Bashir Shihab II who was later appointed to rule Mount Lebanon, started building the palace in 1788 at the site of the Druze hermitage. It took about 30 years to complete. The best craftsmen from Damascus and Aleppo in Syria as well as Italian architects were invited and given much freedom, so its style is a cross between traditional Arab and Italian baroque.

The Castle in Beit Ed Dine

After 1840, when Bashir was sent into exile the palace was used by the Ottomans as a government building, during the French Mandate its role was preserved and it served as a local administrative office. In 1934, it was declared a national monument. In 1943, Bechara El Khoury, the first Lebanese president, declared it the official president's summer residence. During the Lebanese civil war it was heavily damaged. After 1984, when fighting in the area receded, Walid Jumblatt ordered its restoration. Parts of the palace are today open to the public while the rest is still the president's summer residence.

The grand balcony at Beit Ed Dine

Interior salon at Beit Ed Dine castle

Syrian furnishings and ottoman design fireplace at Beit Ed Dine

I tour the castle with an ill informed guide who has limited information on the site. Go figure. It is still very enjoyable to see the well preserved (or restored) castle which is the site of a very well attended yearly Music Summer Festival. Fairuz, Mariah Carey, Elton John, Ricky Martin, Phil Collins, Gilberto Gil are amongst some of the well known artists who have participated in the festival in past years.  The baths are perhaps the single most famous part of the palace of Beit ed Dine. This is a hamman or turkish bath system. You gradually pass from cold to hotter and hotter and steamier rooms, where masseurs knead the dirt out of your skin in a sweaty atmosphere. The baths are still in working order, although they are not normally operating. You can walk through the different rooms and notice that they are lit by small semicircular windows set into the domed ceilings.  

It is now almost 10am. I drive on to Barouk, a short distance from the castle. The village is crowned by "Jabal el Barouk" which stands 1943m above sea level. The mountain has the largest natural reserve in Lebanon, the Al Shouf Cedar Nature Reserve which contains the oldest and most elegant cedar forest in Lebanon, the "Cedrus Libani". That cedar is considered, among with other cedar forests, the real Cedars of Lord "Arz el Rab."

View from Al Shouf Cedar Forest 

Cedar cones

 The cedar is Lebanon's national tree and its pride. It is the symbol of its past grandeur and its hope for a tall and beautifully green future. The Cedar of Lebanon was important to various ancient civilizations. The trees were used by the Phoenicians for building commercial and military ships, as well as houses, palaces, and temples. The ancient Egyptians used its resin in mummification, and its sawdust has been found in the tombs of Egyptian Pharaohs. The Sumerian Epic of Gilgamesh designates the cedar groves of Lebanon as the dwelling of the gods to which Gilgamesh, the hero, ventured. Hebrew priests were ordered by Moses to use the bark of the Lebanon Cedar in circumcision and the treatment of leprosy. The Hebrew prophet Isaiah used the Lebanon Cedar as a metaphor for the pride of the world. According to the Talmud, Jews once burned Lebanese cedar wood on the Mount of Olives to celebrate the new year.

A walk through the Cedar Forest 

Thew view from the Al Shouf Cedar Conservancy area

Foreign rulers from both near and far would order the wood for religious and civil constructs, the most famous of which are King Solomon's Temple in Jerusalem and David's and Solomon's Palaces. Because of its significance the word Cedar is mentioned 76 times in the Bible, and played a pivotal role in the cementing of the Phoenician-Hebrew relationship. Beyond that, it was also used by Romans, Greeks, Persians, Assyrians and Babylonians.

As a result of long exploitation, few old trees remain in Lebanon, but there is now an active program to conserve and regenerate the forests. The Lebanese approach has emphasized natural regeneration rather than planting, and this by creating the right conditions. The Lebanese state has created several Cedar Reserves or nature reserves that contain cedars, including the Chouf Cedar Reserves, the Jaj Cedar Reserve, the Tannourine Reserve, the Ammouaa and Karm Shbat Reserves in the Akkar district, and the Forest of the Cedars of God near Bcharri. Good for them !

I continue towards the village of Mdeyrej which is on the main road between Beirut and Damascus in neighboring Syria. The road snakes around the mountainous countryside dotted with villages and pine trees. 

As I descent towards Beirut, the green landscape gives way to more and more constructed urban area. The towns roll by as I arrive in Alley, busy suburb of Beirut with a beautiful panoramic view over the city and surrounding areas.

Town of Alley and surrounding areas above Beirut

View from Alley of South Beirut and the Hariri Intl Airport

I bypass the downtown area and drive onto the highway pointing towards the towns of Batroun and Tripoli in the North of the country. The side of the highway is covered with Shops, billboards and road signs like at home in Florida. Mc Donald, Pizza Hut, Burger King, you name it they ve got it ! The unmarked multi lane seems to be the ground for car racing and do it yourself traffic is king. All I can say is that looking at the driver made me dizzy and I promptly ignore the very close encounters we almost had with some other like minded drivers. In a flash, we are in Jounieh, a posh neighborhood of Beirut. Complete with its own casino (Le Casino du Liban), beach resorts and multi story luxury condominiums it looks and feels like the French Riviera. Right above Jounieh is located the basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon in the small town of Harissa at an altitude of 650 meters. The basilica is dedicated to the Patron Saint of Lebanon, the Virgin Mary. The Lebanese Christians as well as the Druze and Muslims have a special devotion to the Blessed Virgin Mary. The Maronite Patriarch of Antioch named her the "Queen of Lebanon" in 1908 upon completion of the shrine. One can access the basilica using a lift-gondola from Jounieh.

Lift Gondola climbing to Our Lady of Lebanon

Town of Ghazir/Jounieh

One of the main attraction in Lebanon if you like archeology is the Ancient site of Gebal also known under its greek name of Byblos which I reached 15 minutes after Jounieh.

The Phoenician city of Gebal was named Byblos by the Greeks, because it was through Gebal that papyrus  (bublos; Egyptian papyrus) was imported into Greece. This gave us the word Bible derived from byblos as "the papyrus book". The present day city is now known by the Arabic name Jubayl or Jbeil (جبيل), a direct descendant of the Canaanite name.

Ancient Byblos and modern day Jbeil coexist side by side

Because of the successive layers of debris resulting from centuries of human habitation it is especially interesting for archeologists. The site first appears to have been settled during the Neolithic period, approximately 5000 BC. Neothlithic remains of some buildings can be observed at the site. Byblos has the reputation of being the oldest city in the world, founded by Cronus. During the 3rd millennium BC, the first signs of a town are visible, with the remains of well-built houses of uniform size. This was the early period of Phoenician civilization.

Phoenician Alphabet at Byblos

The Phoenicians were the first state-level society to make extensive use of the alphabet. The Phoenician phonetic alphabet is generally believed to be the ancestor of almost all modern alphabets, although it did not contain any vowels. Through their maritime trade, the Phoenicians spread the use of the alphabet to North Africa and Europe, where it was adopted by the Greeks, who later passed it on to the Etruscans, who transmitted it to the Romans.

The ancient site was rediscovered in 1860 by the French writer Ernest Renan, who made a survey of the area. In 1921-1924 Pierre Montet, a French Egyptologist, began excavations which confirmed trade relations between Byblos and ancient Egypt. Maurice Dunand began his work in Byblos in 1925 and continued with various campaigns until 1975.

A modern construction sits on top of 3000 years worth of debris at Byblos. 

View from the Citadelle of Byblos

The Citadelle was built during the Crusades

The Phoenicians were amongst the greatest traders of their time and owed a great deal of their prosperity to trade (interesting similarity with modern day "Phoenicians", the Lebanese !). The Phoenicians' initial trading partners were the Greeks, with whom they used to trade wood, slaves, glass and powdered Tyrian Purple, used by the Greek elite to color clothes and other garments and not available anywhere else. Without trade with the Greeks they would not be known as Phoenicians, as the word for Phoenician is derived from the Ancient Greek word phoínios, "purple".

The ancient port entrance

I am certainly looking forward to do a follow up trip to this one. I fell in love with Lebanon, its culture and traditions. I do hope the political situation becomes more stable which would benefit the Lebanese people rather than foreigners who have had their eye on this beautiful land for centuries.