THE GIRL FROM IPANEMA: A story of beach, babe and booze

The Beach at Ipanema with Dois Irmaos Peak in the background

The Girl From Ipanema: The Antonio Carlos Jobim Songbook

"The Girl from Ipanema" ("Garota de Ipanema") is a famous bossa nova song, a worldwide hit in the mid-1960s that won a Grammy for Record of the Year in 1965. It was written in 1962, with music by Antonio Carlos Jobim and Portuguese lyrics by Vinicius de Moraes. English lyrics were written later by Norman Gimbel.

The first commercial recording was in 1962, by Pery Ribeiro. The version performed by Astrud Gilberto, along with João Gilberto and Stan Getz, from the 1964 album Getz/Gilberto, became an international hit, reaching number five in the United States pop chart, number 29 in the United Kingdom, and charting highly throughout the world.  

Ipanema is a seaside neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro. Most of the land that Ipanema consists of today once belonged to José Antonio Moreira Filho, Baron of Ipanema. The word "Ipanema" comes from the old Tupi language, meaning "bad water." In this case, it means bad for fishing, since the waves die too close to the sand, pushing fish away.

Farme beach in Ipanema

The Boys from Ipanema

Surfers at Arpoador Point

The song was inspired by Heloísa Eneida Menezes Paes Pinto (now Helô Pinheiro), a fifteen-year-old girl living on Montenegro Street in the fashionable Ipanema district in Rio de Janeiro. Every day she would stroll past the popular Veloso bar-café, not just to the beach ("each day when she walks to the sea"), but in the everyday course of her life. She would sometimes enter the bar to buy cigarettes for her mother and leave to the sound of wolf-whistles. In the winter of 1962 the composers watched the girl pass by the bar, Helô a beautiful brunette attracted the attention of many of the bar patrons. Since the song became popular, she has become a celebrity.

Heloisa Pinheiro

The Girl From Ipanema

The original song lyrics, written in Portuguese, describe how a beautiful girl from Ipanema inspires the World around her. 

"Olha que coisa mais linda, Mais cheia de graça, É ela menina, Que vem que passa
Look at that beautiful thing, more full of grace, she is a girl, who is coming by

Num doce balanço, caminho do mar
in a sweet swing, towards the sea 

Moça do corpo dourado, Do sol de Ipanema, O seu balançado é mais que um poema
Girl with a golden tan, from the sun of Ipanema, your swing is more than a poem 

É a coisa mais linda que eu já vi passar
is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen go by 

Ah, porque estou tão sozinho, Ah, porque tudo é tão triste,
ah, why do I feel so alone, ah, why is everything so sad

Ah, a beleza que existe

ah, the beauty that exists 

A beleza que não é só minha, Que também passa sozinha
the beauty that is not only mine, who also goes alone

Ah, se ela soubesse, Que quando ela passa, O mundo sorrindo se enche de graça
Ah, if she only knew, when she passes by, the World smiles, fills with grace

E fica mais lindo, Por causa do amor"
and gets more beautiful because of love

Today's Girls in Ipanema

Man From Ipanema

Ipanema and Arpoador Point in the background

The LGBT beach at Farme de Amoedo, a colorful area of Ipanema

The beach is divided into segments by marks known as "postos" (lifeguard towers). Beer is sold everywhere on the beach along with the traditional cachaça. There are always circles of people playing football, volleyball, and foot volley, a combination sport of volleyball and football originated in Brazil.

In the winter the surf can reach 9 feet. The water quality varies with days of light-blue water to a more murky green after heavy rains. Constant swells keep the water clean. The water is colder than you would expect since this is the tropics but when it is 40C (100F) no one really cares !

One of the more interesting area of the beach is situated near "posto 9" at Rua Farme de Amoedo, well-known for being a gay-friendly and easily identifiable with the rainbow flag flapping in the air. That's where one can see the Boys from Ipanema in action rather than the traditional Girl icon.  

A sea side cafe/bar served beer, fresh coconut water, caipirinhas and other Brazilian favorites.

Ipanema is adjacent to Copacabana beach, but is distinct from its neighbor. It is relatively easy to navigate because the streets are aligned in a grid. Private infrastructure has created world-class restaurants, shops, and cafes. Ipanema is one of the most expensive places to live in Rio. One of them, Garota de Ipanema, is the actual bar where the two writers of the famous song composed it. You can expect to stand in line to get the privilege of sitting at the very spot.

At the forefront of the beach culture are the many surfers and sun worshippers who socialize daily at the beach. Every Sunday, the roadway closest to the beach is closed to motor vehicles and local residents and tourists use the opportunity to ride bikes, roller skate, skateboard, and walk along the ocean.

Garota de Ipanema bar on Rua Prudente de Moraes. The first lyrics of the famous song are inscribed on a commemorative plaque on the wall above the bar.

A sunday morning on Rua Prudente de Moraes

Ipanema's Rua Prudente de Moraes

Sunrise over Ipanema

One of the classic examples of the formation of favelas in Rio Janeiro is the ajoinging favelas of Cantagalo, Pavao and Pavaozinho, in which the poorer population settled on the hills close to the fastest growing areas.

At the top is one of the best views in Rio, with Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and the beaches of Ipanema and Leblon. The social contrast is very evident in this part of the metropolis, where lower class residents live close to one of the richest neighborhoods in the city.

In spite of being located in an upscale area of Rio, it faces all the typical problems of needy communities. Residents suffer from the lack of infrastructure, and until a short while ago they had to submit to the rules of the Comando Vermelho (CV), the criminal group that controlled drug trafficking.

The complex formed by Cantagalo and Pavão-Pavãozinho holds a population of some 17 thousand people. A study of the Cantagalo favela showed that 94% of the residents had water and sewerage service and 86% had a telephone. The study also indicated that 80% of the residents were born in Rio.

The location allows its residents easy access to the Central Zone and its jobs. Young people from this community are generally better informed, as they are close to the city’s cultural centers. However, they are also close to known areas of prostitution, like some streets and discos in Copacabana.

Morro do Cantagalo with the favelas on the hillside

The Arpoador Point at the end of Ipanema

Dois Irmaos Peak at the end of Ipanema

The Cantagalo and Pavão-Pavãozinho complex has attracted social initiatives. At the top of the hill is a large building, called the Brizolão, where entities that try to promote improvements and educational projects for the residents of the community are located. In addition to government and UNESCO actions, there are projects by NGOs that were already established on the hillside, like the Criança Esperança Project and AfroReggae with its program “Dançando para não Dançar” (Dancing so you don’t Dance to the Wrong Music).

Athletes and artists promote social activities in the communities. Among these are the members of the Cirque du Soleil, documentary maker João Moreira Salles and ballerina Ana Botafogo. There is also an Integrated Public Education Center (CIEP). The school is the headquarters for classes and presentations on civic involvement, computers, circus, sewing, capoeira, dance and boxing. Alongside the professors, the police themselves help to administer the space.

Another initiative brought tourists to Cantagalo for New Year’s Eve 2007. The idea was a success, and for New Year’s Eve 2010, several tourists watched the fireworks from atop the residents’ houses, in Cantagalo. Community leaders are also developing the Favela Museum, with outdoor tourist routes that tell the community’s story and value local culture.

In July of 2010, a series of elevators was inaugurated at Morro do Cantagalo, connecting the hilltop community to the subway station of General Osório, in Ipanema. In addition to the elevators there is also a lookout, called Mirante da Paz (Peace Lookout). This construction contributes to a further integration between the community and the rest of the neighborhood and boasts a fabulous panoramic view from its 65 m high vantage point.

Come Explore Ipanema for yourself while vacationing in RIO !

DAMASCUS, Queen of the Desert

The border post with Lebanon  

I visited Syria in October 2010. It was truly a voyage of discovery especially due to the fact very little is commonly known about Syria besides being categorized as unsafe and hostile country to Western visitors, especially Americans for the overwhelming one sided support to Israel America continues to lavish for its very own interests.

Entering Damascus

Like a mirage, straight out of a story of 1001 nights, sheltered by Jabal Qasioun, a mountain facing the West-North West, and opened to the Arabian desert to the East, Damascus is like a graceful belly dancer on the Middle East performing stage. A city with a very ancient history (settlements of this area was started some 9000BC), vibrant culture, endless souks (the original shopping mall), colorful fabrics and scintillating mirrored mosques, Ancient Damascus (a World heritage city) seems to cruise the waves of time without taking in much water. Just like Old Delhi as I remember it. Fascinating, busy with life, commerce and exchanges of all sorts, timeless and unwavering. 

The quiet Christian quarter of Old Damascus

My visit started in a very unconventional manner. The taxi I had trusted to take me to my hotel just had no idea where it was and decided to drop me randomly at the nearest gate of the Old City. Sort of a lottery really. He promptly asked for his money and told me he couldn't drive inside the Old city since it was prohibited but that my hotel was within walking distance. Boy was I naive. After all the International travel I had done so far I should have known better. But what do you know. New country, new set of rules and as a visitor who wants to make waves the first time. Thank God many Syrians are very hospitable and most helpful. I recounted my story to a well spoken and well dressed gentleman on the street in the picture above who promptly got on his mobile and helped me getting a new taxi with a fixed price to my destination. I was abut 5 miles where I should have been. I got to the hotel feeling a little uneasy and weary of anything that could turn into trouble.

quiet street in Damascus

Once at the reception I found out I needed to talk to the manager, a soft spoken gentleman who promptly greeted me and explained he had his own business on the side and that he would take me to the location of my room.  A few blocks away, on a quiet street (the one above in the picture) we stopped in front of a colonial style apartment building. He opened the door to an under street level unit (like in NYC). As we walked in I discovered a small room and a bathroom which was just fine for my purpose. He gave me instructions about internet connection, telephone use and access. Before leaving he gave me a map and directions to the old walled city, the historical center of Damascus. As he returned to the hotel, I positioned myself and freshened up before going out to explore.

Ath Thaurah st

Al Hamidiyah Souq

I walk a good 15 minutes towards the Old Citadel. The streets are crowded with life, yellow taxis are running their course and street vendors hustle some impromptu customer. I reach the entrance of a famous covered market, the Al Hamidiyah Souq leading to the Umayyad mosque, one of the largest and oldest mosque in the world, considered the fourth holiest place in Islam. The market gallery is about 400 feet long and is filled with stores selling from hookas, sweets, clothes, souvenirs to elegant attire and woodworks. Inside the gallery is also one of Damascus landmark ice cream parlour: Badkash. If you are ever in Damascus, you must try this ice cream delight. It is famous for its pistachio-covered Booza, a pounded ice cream with an elastic texture made of mastic and sahlab. It is famous around the Arab World and has become a popular tourist attraction.

Umayyad Mosque and Damascus Treasury Dome

St John the Baptist Shrine inside the Mosque

Umayyad Mosque interior (men section)

Detail of the Dome of the Treasury

The Umayyad mosque is breathtaking in grandeur and beauty. After the Arab conquest of Damascus, the mosque was built on the Christian basilica dedicated to John the Baptist since the time of the Roman emperor Constantine I. The mosque holds a shrine which still today may contain the head of John the Baptist (Yahya), honored as a prophet by both Christians and Muslims alike. There are also many important landmarks within the mosque for the Shī‘ah, among them is the place where the head of Husayn (the grandson of Muhammad) was kept on display by Yazīd I. The outside facades of the mosque are adorned with a multitude of richly decorated mosaics depicting Damascene life. A short distance from the mosque is the spice market, one of my favorite places to buy genuine spices for a fraction of what we pay at home. If you wish to buy spices i would recommend you go visit an Indian or middle eastern store near you. They will have a lot of spices available which will be a lot cheaper than your local grocery store.  This said, I feasted my eyes on the beautiful displays and ended up buying some to bring home.

Spices

Religious Store in the Christian District

My lunch fresh out of the oven in the Old City

A Tamarind juice seller

The markets are numerous inside the old city. They are supplying all sort of goods in a specific order. One browses an alley filled for jewelry, the next one filled with ready made clothes, another one with nuts and spices and so on. So you just need to know what you want and go to that area. It's easy if you know where everything is. I just had fun browsing and wandering the alleys, sometimes just as wide as a house door ! Some streets have hanging balconies dating back to the middle ages. Some lead to some amazingly beautifully decorated shrines like the one of the daughters of Iman Al Husain, Sayyeda Roqayya (photo below).

Old City, Muslim Quarter

The Shrine of Sayyeda Roqayya 

Sand work inside bottles reminds of Brasil ! 

The oldest tea house in Old Damascus

Tea and hooka with internet ! 

Some lanes lead to very old houses converted into cafes and restaurant. Within their indoor large patios, once planted with citrus trees around a courtyard with a fountain center, tables and chairs are arranged to welcome visitors and locals alike. The charm and atmosphere are certainly here for relaxation after the tumult of the crowds. In the middle of this medina like city appears the entrance to the Azem Palace, originally built in 1750 as a residence for the Ottoman governor of Damascus As'ad Pasha al-Azm. The palace now houses the Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions. The architecture is an excellent example of Damascene traditional houses.

Azam Palace

Azam Palace gardens

The following photos will also give you an idea of what the streets are like in the various quarters of the old city. I spent a few hours strolling the lanes and gazing at the store fronts. 

Bab Sharki, One of the Gates to the Old City

Christian Quarter

Boutique fronts

shopping for snacks

Admiring a craftsman inlaying silver and copper threads

This gentleman's father wove the fabric used to make
 Queen Elizabeth II 's wedding dress. He still use the same
machine today ! 

Spice market

I really look forward to see a lot more of Syria next time I visit. This experience has opened my eyes to an area I would have passed by without looking twice before. It goes to show we should form our own opinion instead of overly relying on some TV anchor who has an agenda which might stray him/her from reality. So let's stay open minded and discover what the World truly has to offer everywhere ! 

BARROCO MINEIRO: A Colonial experience in Brasil's heartland

The image of Brazil can largely be summed up by the very first verses of a 60's song by Jorge Ben : 

Moro num país tropical, 
abençoado por Deus
E bonito por natureza 
mas que beleza
Em fevereiro (em fevereiro)
Tem carnaval (tem carnaval)
Tenho um fusca e um violão
Sou FlamengoTenho uma nêga
Chamada Tereza

translation
I live in a tropical country, 
blessed by God
where there is natural beauty,
and on top of it
In February
There is the Carnaval 
I have a Wolkswagen Beetle and a guitar
I am from Flamengo (a neighbourhood in Rio having a famous soccer team)
I have a black babe
and her name is Tereza 

The World over, Brasil is synonymous to the 3 B's:  Beach, Babes and Booze. Naturally there is more to Brazil than these generic stereotypes and that is what we are going to explore on today's odyssey. I give you Minas Gerais, a place of colonial treasures, culinary delights and cachaça, Brasil's notoriously delicious and intoxicating rhum.

Ouro Preto, Church of Sao Francisco

A BRIEF BACKGROUND 

Minas Gerais was formed mainly by colonists named bandeirantes (followers of the flag) who searched for  gold, which was discovered in 1693, gems, and later diamonds. In 1697, the Portuguese used African slaves to start building the Estrada Real (Royal road) that would serve as a Gold highway to the port cities of Rio de Janeiro and Paraty from mineral-rich regions, mainly Ouro Preto to Diamantina. The first capital was the city of Mariana; it was later moved to Vila Rica (today's Ouro Preto). In the late 18th century, Vila Rica was the largest city in Brazil and one of the most populous in America. As the gold mines were exhausted over the 19th century, the city lost its importance; it was later renamed Ouro Preto (Black Gold) and remained the state capital until the construction of the all-new, planned city of Belo Horizonte at the turn of the 20th century. The gold trade left its mark in cities such as Mariana, Ouro Preto, Diamantina, Sabará,Tiradentes and São João del Rei. The relative isolation from European influence, added to the huge influx of gold and other valuable minerals, helped the local people to develop their own style of art, which became known as Barroco Mineiro. Prime examples of this period are the richly decorated churches of the colonial cities, some of them preserved today as museums. The most important artist of this period was Antônio Lisboa, who became known as Aleijadinho (the little cripple). His statues and paintings are now highly valued by experts as one of the most refined artistic expressions of the 1800's outside Europe.

Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Matozinhos, Congonhas

I landed in Belo Horizonte on a sunny Brazilian winter day, in early July. I still remember the cool breeze as I exited the terminal building at Belo Horizonte's Confins airport. I proceeded to the Avis counter and promptly got into my rental and started driving towards the much anticipated historical region I had been waiting to visit for years. I found my way through a network of roads, highway crossing and neighbourhood tree lined avenues to BR40, a national highway linking Rio de Janeiro to Brasilia. That's the road I need to take to reach Congonhas, my first stop. The ride is uneventful even though I get dangerously close to some pot holes spread around the roadway without any warning of course. The terrain is hilly, planted with eucalyptus trees which line some portions of the road. There are many heavily loaded trucks whose drivers seems to know that the end of the World is fast approaching. Actually a few miles down the road I encounter one who has an unfortunate encounter with gravity and went directly to the pearly gates. Needless to say, after the grim reality of death, I stay the course and drive carefully.

Prophet Ezequiel, Congonhas

Upon reaching Congonhas, I feel a sense of being close to something I know is going to be extraordinary. This colonial town holds a real treasure of architecture and history. It is the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Matozinho, a Unesco World heritage site for its artistic value. The church, which is the main building, was completed in 1772 atop Maranhao Hill. It was commissioned by a Portuguese immigrant, Feliciano Mendes, who had been miraculously cured of a crippling infirmity. This is surely South America's Christian art's most amazing groupings of monuments. Statues of the 12 prophets of the Christian old testament, arranged in front of the sanctuary and on the stairs, are the work of master sculptor Antônio Francisco Lisboa, known by the name "o Aleijadinho", "The Little Cripple" due to a debilitating disease, probably leprosy, which began to show while he was working. Because of his infirmity, his assistants had to strap his hammer and chisels to what remained of his hands, which did not at this point include fingers. Since he no longer had feet to stand on he had pads strapped to his knees up which he'd climb the ladders needed to get him off the ground. Each statue holds a manuscript of its character's prophecies.

São João del Rei

After being bathed in history and beauty for a few hours, I drive on to São João del Rei, my stop for the night.

I reach São João in late afternoon and check in into a pousada (a sort of bed and breakfast) I found online. The room is simple and clean. I decide to go for a walk since I have been riding in a small car almost the entire day. The city is small enough to walk to the major sites. I cross a stone bridge ending up standing in front of a restaurant serving "Comida Mineira" meaning cuisine from Minas Gerais. I decide to dine in style at this family style restaurant. Few customers are in since it is around 7pm, way too early for any Brazilian dinner. The food is good and cheap, less than $12 including drinks. Following my culinary experience, I decide to loose myself inside the historical section of the town (I love to do that everywhere I go) and found a church sponsored street fair serving pasteis (the Brazilian version of empanadas) and sweets. I watch a volunteer roll the dough through a hand powered machine, making it smoother and thinner with each passing strike. He is working on a marble table reminding  me of my own kitchen's granite top. Once the dough is the perfect shape and thickness, he stuffs them with various filings. He then promptly hands them to a lady in front of a boiling frying vessel filled with hot oil. She carefully slides the dough into the oil and I can hear it crackle. The dough turns golden brown and puffs up. It looks yummy. I will try one for sure.

Pasteis in São João

I call it a night after my evening escapade.

The following morning I understand what a pousada is all about: Breakfast buffet. This one is not enormous but the items displayed have been freshly made, the juices just squeezed and the smell of coffee is all around. I feast on this wonderful opportunity not only sampling various pastries, breads and cold cuts but also get to try different fruits unknown to me. I fall in love with Atemoia, an hybrid fruit created by crossing the sugar apple and the cherimoya, both native to tropical America. With a full belly it's time for a little exercise and what better way than wandering the historic area on foot. I proceed, water bottle in hand, to Rua Getulio Vargas, the main street in the colonial center. Beautiful buildings from an era gone by are surrounding me. On each side of the street, colonial style houses painted in pastel colors contribute to make this town's atmosphere a living museum. I feel like I am in Europe far away from South America's tropics. The street is quiet and the people movements are unhurried and gentle, like a breeze through the trees. Churches, houses, stores and botecos (neighbourhood cafes) cohabit side by side. The smells of firewood burning catches my attention and I follow it to a restaurant serving food from Minas. "Comida Mineira no Fogo a lenha", litterally "we serve food cooked over firewood". Now that sounds very good. I entered and sat at a table ushered by a pretty waitress. I asked in my broken Portuguese for the menu and the price. She promptly told me "the menu is all you can eat, no a la carte food and it costs R$6". I wondered at that point if I heard all this right. I asked her again. "Is it all you can eat and I pay R$6 (US$3) ?" she answered with a big smile. "Sim senhor" (yes sir). She didn't have to tell me again. I had a delicious lunch at that place sampling various dishes, ragoûts, salads and churrasco (grilled meats). 

São João Del Rei

Barroco Mineiro Glossario De Arquitetura E Ornamentacao

Rua Getulio Vargas in São João del Rei

Mestres do barroco mineiro volume I

Church of Our Lady of Merces, São João del Rei

O Barroco Mineiro Em Textos (Portuguese Edition)

I spend 2 hours wandering the streets of colonial Sao Joao del Rei, discovering beautifully maintained historical churches (still in use) and drive on to Tiradentes.

Largo das Forras, Tiradentes

I arrive in Tiradentes in the middle of the afternoon, under a brilliant winter sun. The perfect weather for another visit on foot. This little village in the middle of the countryside seems to have been designed by some ingenious Brazilian Walt Disney in search of his past. Indeed, this place is very well maintained and most of everything I see looks original. The enormous cobblestones, the beautifully painted facades and the horse drawn carriages make it a charming and endearing experience. This is by far the best preserved colonial town in Brazil. Amongst the many churches and public buildings like the old jail, Tiradentes is home to the second most gilded (gold covered) baroque interior of Brazil. The Matrix Sao Antonio church is truly spectacular. 

Unfortunately no pictures are allowed inside the church so you will have to go see for yourself ! 

300 years old Matrix de Sao Antonio, Tiradentes

A WORD ON TIRADENTES

Joaquim José da Silva Xavier, known as Tiradentes, was a leading member of the Brazilian revolutionary movement known as the Inconfidência Mineira whose aim was full independence from the Portuguese colonial power and to create a Brazilian republic. When the plan was discovered, Tiradentes was arrested, tried and publicly hanged. Since the 19th century he has been considered a national hero of Brazil. This town bears his name as a commemoration of his contribution to Brazil's independence. 

BRAZIL'S BLACK GOLD 

My next stop is the World Heritage site of Ouro Preto.

Founded at the end of the 17th century, Ouro Preto (meaning Black Gold) was the focal point of the gold rush and Brazil's golden age in the 18th century under Portuguese rule. Located at an elevation of 1,116 meters (3661 feet) Ouro Preto is home to well preserved Portuguese colonial architecture, with few signs of modern urban life. Modern construction must adhere to historical standards maintained by the city. 18th- and 19th-century churches decorated with gold and the sculptures of Aleijadinho make Ouro Preto an outstanding heritage to preserve. 

Rua Parana, Ouro Preto

The tremendous wealth from gold mining in the 18th century created a city which attracted the intelligentsia of Europe. Philosophy and art flourished, and evidence of a baroque revival called the "Barroco Mineiro" is illustrated in architecture as well as by sculptors such as Aleijadinho, painters such as Mestre Athayde, composers such as Lobo de Mesquita, and poets such as Thomas Gonzaga.

In 1789, Ouro Preto became the birthplace of the Inconfidência Mineira, a failed attempt to gain independence from Portugal.  

Ouro Preto

Undoubtedly one of the gems of baroque colonial architecture in Brasil, Ouro Preto is truly an open history book. With its steep cobble stone streets, colonial buildings and 9 historical churches, one is plunged back into a time when Gold flooded its streets and aristocracy mingled around its grandiose squares.  This town is truly made for the physically fit visitor since it is built along steep hills. It is a constant up and down battle to reach any one of the monuments. However well worth the effort since a climb to any of them is well rewarded by the vision of sculptures and gilded interiors of many. This is also possibly the most visited town in this part of Brazil and one can listen to a World array of languages while touring.

Museu da Inconfidencia, Museum of the Independence Movement

As describing 9 churches would be boring, here is one which I think is worth mentioning.

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (the Church of San Francisco de Assis). This church, built in 1776 (the year the United States gained their Independence), is Aleijadinho's masterpiece and the highest expression of the rococo style. It has some oddly military features, such as cylindrical towers that look like watchtowers, and roofs that resemble helmets adorned with spears.The Cross of Lorena, with two arms flanked by balls of fire, is especially impressive. Inside, Aleijadinho created sculptures for the pulpits, wood panels, a soapstone sculpted door, the main chapel's altars, and the fountain of the sacristy. Mestre Athayde painted the ceiling, which appears higher thanks to the arrangement of the columns and parapets.

Sao Francisco de Assisi in Ouro Preto

Facade of a Church, Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil Giclee Poster Print by Panoramic Images , 24x8

Steep street going down to the 'Downtown area" from Santa Efigenia Chuch

My last stop is Mariana, the old capital city of Minas Gerais before Ouro Preto gained importance. A short drive leads to a small valley where Mariana is nestled. Named after Anne Marie of Austria, wife of Joao V, King of Portugal, the city was founded in 1696. It is located on the Estrada Real or Royal Road which linked the mines of the interior of Brazil to the port cities of the Atlantic, namely Rio de Janeiro and Paraty. From there, the rich mineral cargo would embark on a voyage to Portugal to benefit its crown. As it is the case for most colonial towns in Brasil, the gold flowing would serve the local catholic endeavor at converting local population to Christianity. I can only imagine the feeling of awe any one non-Christian would have had by visiting a church at that time, when it was freshly decorated with exquisite work of art and covered in gold. How could anyone resist the power of such God who could have such beauty built in his glory?

Mariana

Aleijadinho e Sua Oficina, O

Work by the Aleijadinho in Mariana